Book a spot: wine dinners at The Westcliff

As the weather cools and the leaves turn umber across the City of Gold, Four Seasons The Westcliff Hotel Johannesburg (which all of us still just call The Westcliff) has got a brilliant idea stitched up. And properly, in the form of a series of communal table wine dinners. We swung by for the first of the series, titled “One Night, One Table, Five Terroirs”.

Held in partnership with family-owned winery Atlas Swift, it also had the hotel’s executive chef Rudi Liebenberg – formerly of the Mount Nelson and The Saxon – crafting a menu in tune with the wines.

The Atlas Swift approach

Based in Franschhoek, Atlas Swift’s husband-and-wife team Martin and Welma Smith work with a single cultivar sourced from five distinct Cape regions, crafting each into a separate wine. What’s in the glass becomes a conversation between grape and ground, terroir in its clearest sense.

And what fun it was to be guided through the concept and wines by Welma Smith, who introduced guests to each selection chosen for the evening. She kicked off with the informal Shelter Chardonnay on arrival on the terrace, served with oysters. There was also a plant-based offering which included canapés of cracker, carrot, and cashew nut cheese – easily the best vegan cheese I’ve had.

At the table

We then moved into a private dining room, where hotel manager Willem du Toit joined us. He described the evening with Atlas Swift as setting the tone for the upcoming dining series – something intimate, considered and rooted in the best of what the Cape produces. As he put it, “For one night, Franschhoek is at the table, and that is precisely the point: to partner with some of South Africa’s most exceptional wine and food producers, bringing winemakers and seasonal produce directly to our guests.”

Next up was the Cape South Coast Chardonnay, a ray of sunshine in a glass – all bright citrus with a hint of brioche – followed by the Franschhoek Chardonnay. Paired respectively with sea bass and curry leaf-poached crayfish, Atlas Swift’s Chardonnays were the clear stars of the evening, offering a compelling illustration of terroir. Sign us up for a case straight away.

While I’ll admit I’m more of a white wine person, Smith and chef Liebenberg’s guidance made the reds deliciously engaging, and the food didn’t disappoint. First up was the Shelter Malbec, capturing the vibrancy of Wellington’s terroir with its deep purple hue and rich, layered flavours. It accompanied duck breast, Parmesan and truffle. This was followed by the Shelter Cabernet Sauvignon, served with slow-braised shin and sweetbreads.

The standout meal was undoubtedly the Cheddar Verine, a dream for any cheese enthusiast. A clever, savoury take on dessert, it combined mature cheddar crème, a cheddar and onion croquette, crumble, crisp and fig – and was paired with the Shelter Red Blend, which is all blueberries, redcurrants and cassis with a subtle edge of basil, graphite and black pepper. We wouldn’t have said no to seconds, thirds or even fourths.

The crowd

But it wasn’t just the wine and food that made the evening, it was the conversation. The group was as diverse as they come: couples, friends, singles, seasoned wine enthusiasts and those simply curious to learn more.

There was an anniversary, a date marked by flowers arriving mid-meal, a Brazilian couple on honeymoon, and even one very late (and rather tipsy) guest who made for a good story or two.

Whether it was the welcoming atmosphere or the wine, everyone slipped into easy chat, and the evening took on that rare, unforced sense of fun. As Smith put it, “What always stands out to me about Johannesburg is its vibrant energy, an openness and enthusiasm for life that is both refreshing and inspiring.”

What’s next?

If the first evening set the tone, there is plenty more to look forward to. The hotel plans to continue the series. Notes Du Toit: “On 22 April, we welcome Babylonstoren to The Westcliff for the first of four seasonal dinners. This collaboration allows executive chef Liebenberg to create a menu centred on exceptional seasonal produce. The result promises to be a very special evening.” Given our long-term love for Babylonstoren, you now know exactly where to find us that weekend.

For more details on upcoming events at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff Johannesburg, and to book, go here.

Need a little more food and wine inspo? Here’s some from the team.

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